The Modern Pantry

by isabelleldn

img_7183

Nestled on a quiet square in Clerkenwell, a short walk from Farringdon station, is the Modern Pantry. In the summer tables spill out of this old townhouse, and inside there are 3 levels to the restaurant (and the toilets are right at the top!). The ground floor has a bright, relaxed cafe vibe with a long sharing table in the centre; the first floor plays host to a similarly daubed restaurant along with some private dining rooms, and the second floor has more elaborate private dining rooms offer.

img_7190

I’ve been to the Modern Pantry twice for brunch, and it’s truly excellent. The baked eggs are exceptional, but I’m a sucker for the eggs-as-you-like and halloumi. I also have it on good authority they do a wonderful bottomless brunch at the weekends… so consider this review a “to be continued” because that definitely warrants a fourth visit!

img_7186

White crab, macadamia nut som tam, sourdough toast, pickled sea plantain and parsnip crisps

My third visit (and when I actually remembered to take pictures) was for dinner. The dinner menu is just as interesting as the brunch menu, and the portions equally generous. The chefs clearly favour eclectic ingredients – there were plenty of things on the menu that captured my curiosity. To start, I went for the white crab on toast with sea plantain. I think this dish is an acquired taste, and I’m not sure I would order it again, but I did enjoy it. If you’re not feeling adventurous, the smoked burrata salad looked a much safer bet.

img_7189

Tamarind & miso marinated onglet steak, shallot puree, sea beats, lemongrass braised cherry tomatoes; Persian spice, yougurt & garlic marinated lamb chops, jerusalem artichoke puree, radish, broad bean and parchment bread salad, spiced pommes Anna, goats cheese cream; on the side, cassava chips with creme fraiche and tomato salsa

For mains, I went for onglet steak which was melt in your mouth delicious, and perfectly paired with seat beats and lemongrass braised cherry tomatoes. My dining companion had a marinated lamb dish, and this was just as tasty. And I can’t stress how generous the portions are – you won’t need dessert. Which is actually a shame because the desserts look equally delectable.

Without a doubt one of my favourite restaurants in London, not to be missed.

Advertisements